Montparnasse is in Paris‘ 14th arrondissement, and is one of the best neighbourhoods to visit in Paris for an authentic Paris experience. It’s my favourite neighbourhood, and I’ve stayed in the area on my last three visits to Paris! This Montparnasse neighbourhood guide includes the best things to do in Montparnasse, the best restaurants & bars and my suggestions for where to stay in Montparnasse.

Where is Montparnasse in Paris?

Montparnasse is in Paris’ 14th arrondissement, which is located on the left bank of the Seine. Montparnasse is south of St Germain, the 6th arrondissement, and is also close to the 7th arrondissement. Because Paris’ arrondissements are arranged from 1-20 in a cyclical order, like the shell of your escargot, the 14th is just south of the 6th & 7th, which are home to many of Paris’ must-see sights as well as the famed Saint Germain neighbourhood.

Montparnasse Metro

Get the Paris Metro to Vavin to arrive in the heart of Montparnasse

Hotels in Montparnasse

I think Montparnasse is one of the best areas to stay in Paris, for a more authentic Paris experience. Montparnasse is a beautiful, leafy neighbourhood with elegant boulevards and beautiful architecture, and dozens of charming restaurants and bars, filled with Parisians. I love visiting some of the most famous and touristy areas of Paris, like Montmartre, St Germain and Ile de Cite, but I loved returning to this charming Paris neighbourhood every day to escape the crowds.

I’ve stayed in Montparnasse on three different occasions, but the hotel from our most recent, 5-day trip to Paris was my favourite. Hotel Raspail Montparnasse is a charming boutique hotel, with a great location and offering excellent value for money. The view from our corner room included views of the Eiffel Tower, and in the far distance, Sacre Coeur, and was one of the highlights of our trip!

The Best Things to Do in Montparnasse

Tour Montparnasse

Visiting the Tour Montparnasse Observation Deck is one of the best things to do in Montparnasse. From the Observation Deck, take in the best views of Paris, including clear views of the Eiffel Tower and the dome of Hotel des Invalides. Tour Montparnasse is a skyscraper that caused an a public uproar when it was built in 1973, and led to all future skyscraper developments being banned in Paris, to protect the Eiffel Tower from being overshadowed. Tour Montparnasse may be ugly, but as the only skyscraper in Paris it offers unparalleled views of the city. The best time to visit Tour Montparnasse is shortly before dusk, so you can enjoy daytime, sunset and night time views over Paris. Tour Montparnasse is known as Montparnasse Tower in English.

The Paris Catacombs

A tour of the Paris Catacombs is one of the most unusual things to do in Montparnasse. This underground labyrinth is a network of tunnels, used as an ossuary and crypt (a place to store skeletal remains). The catacombs were created in the late 18th century, after major public health problems arose from Paris’ cemeteries. City officials decided to move the contents of the cemeteries to an underground location, in former 15th century quarries that left a network of tunnels under the city. The first cemetery to be transferred was Saints-Innocents, which was the largest in Paris and had been closed in 1780 after more than 1000 years of use.

Today, the catacombs are open to the general public, with ticketed admission. The Paris catacombs stretch for kilometres underneath the streets of Montparnasse. The catacombs are more than five stories underground, with more than 100 steps to descend, and to later climb to leave. The circuit is 1.5km, so you should allow an hour or more for your visit. A warning at the beginning of the catacombs reads “Arrete! Ici le empire de la mort.” Or, “Stop! This is the empire of the dead.”

Parc Montsouris

Parc Montsouris is one of the four large urban parks in Paris, alongside the Bois de Boulougne, Bois des Vincennes and Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Located next to Cite Universitaire, it is popular with students, and also families. There are seemingly endless meandering pathways throughout the park, and plenty of spots to settle for a picnic or some people watching. Couples and families picnic, children enjoy pony rides and many elderly Parisians feed the swans gliding across the lake.

Paris’ Best Crepes

Historically, Montparnasse has been known for the crepe stands lining Blvd Montparnasse. There aren’t as many these days, but it is still one of the best places in Paris to get a hot crepe. I love Creperie Genia! You can find it next to the restaurant La Coupole.

Marche Saxe-Breteuil

Marche Saxe-Breteuil is one of the best food markets in Paris, and one of the prettiest as it framed by the Eiffel Tower & Hotel des Invalides. The market runs between Place de Breteuil and Avenue de Segur, and is open every Thursday & Saturday morning. Marche Saxe-Breteuil is one of the best food markets in Paris for fresh product & gourmet foods, as it attracts farmers & producers from all over France.

Restaurants & Bars in Montparnasse

The best restaurants in Montparnasse include Parisian institutions, like the four great restaurants of Montparnasse: Le Select, La Coupole, La Rotonde and Le Dome, which were popular with Paris’ intellectuals, artists and bohemians in the 1920s, including Ernest Hemingway. Unlike some of the tourist hot spots in St Germain, the restaurants in Montparnasse are less touristy and still filled wall to wall with Parisians. On our most recent trip to Paris, we stayed in Montparnasse and loved going to a different bar or restaurant on Boulevard Montparnasse every day!

Le Select

Le Select is a Paris institution! Established in 1925, Le Select is an art deco brasserie on Blvd Montparnasse that has stood the test of time. Ernest Hemingway used to live around the corner, and wrote from Le Select often, calling it “the soul of Montparnasse.” It’s beautiful but unpretentious, and the tiny terrasse tables are a perfect spot from which to watch the world go by.

Le Dome

Le Dome is one of the most storied restaurants in Paris, for being featured in the works of Ernest Hemingway, Edith Piaf, Anais Nin and Henry Miller. It’s a gorgeous restaurant, and remarkably, like the best restaurants in Montparnasse, it has avoided becoming a tourist trap. It is elegant, opulent and like stepping back in time. There is a beautiful terrace, encased in glass, which makes it a perfect spot for an apertif year-round. The aperitif menu is extensive, with many French drinks I haven’t seen anywhere else.

La Coupole

La Coupole is one of the most glamorous restaurants in Montparnasse. This brasserie was established in 1927, and continues to be very popular. La Coupole is particularly known for its seafood, and its glamorous interiors. It is a little more touristy than some of the other restaurants, but is an icon in its own right.

Le Relais de l’Entrecote

Le Relais de l’Entrecote is one of the most unusual dining experiences in Paris. We were looking for steak frites before we left Paris, and we’d seen someone eating steak frites on the terrace of this restaurant the day before. We arrived quite early by chance, and were surprised to see a queue forming outside the door – we assumed we wouldn’t be able to get a table. As it turned out, it is walk-in only, so we were in luck! We were whisked to a table, and rather than being given a menu, we were asked how we liked our steak cooked and whether we liked red or white wine, and “soft or strong.” Moments later, we each received a salad each, and they served steak frites to us at our table, from a large platter. After we finished our meal, they returned to serve us the remainder of the platter – the entire platter was ours! Remarkably, this set menu is only 27,50 euros per person, plus wine and dessert which are optional. It may not be a traditional French restaurant experience, but it was fun – and yet again, there were barely any non-French tourists.

Charivari

Charivari is a picture perfect Parisian bar and terrace, located on a corner in Montparnasse for prime people watching. All of the tables at Charivari are outdoors, and clustered together in the typical Parisian style with the bistro chairs facing the street. Charivari is perfect for experiencing a slice of life in Paris, and seemed to be entirely tourist free when we visited (apart from us!).

Near the 14th Arrondissement

Montparnasse, the 14th arrondissement, is close to many of Paris’ iconic sights and neighbourhoods. Montparnasse is next to the 7th arrondissement, which is home to the Eiffel Tower, Musee Rodin and Hotel des Invalides. It is also adjacent to the 6th arrondissement, which is home to the famous Saint-Germain neighbourhood and the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg.

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