Despite being a stone’s throw from the Queensland border, and miles from Sydney, Tenterfield immediately struck me as a town belonging to New South Wales. The wide thoroughfares, palm trees and occasional sandstone building of Warwick was swapped for narrow streets lined with a charming collection of colourful, beautifully-preserved buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century.

Read more: The Most Charming Country Towns in Australia

Most Australians over the age of forty will know of this tiny town from Peter Allen’s 1970s pop hit “Tenterfield Saddler”, but what many Aussies (of all ages) don’t know is that it was the birthplace of the movement for Australia’s federation (1901). It was in Tenterfield that Sir Henry Parkes, the “father of federation” delivered his rousing speech that set the wheels in motion for a federated Australia.

Queensland has much younger buildings than NSW and Victoria, so I always love to see beautiful old buildings interstate. I also love the clash of old buildings housing 21st century stores.

We were only in town for the night. Our proud B &B owner told us we’d need a month to see everything in Tenterfield, but I was happy just walking the main street the next day with my camera in one hand and a coffee from the Courtyard Cafe in another.

Our dinner options were limited, so we decided to check out the RSL.

We’d been inside for approximately four minutes when I invented my RSL Rule: Never eat at one.

RSL Clubs in Australia have cheap drinks, but mediocre food at ridiculous prices. They’re built all over Australia by the government for returned servicemen, and part of the perk is that there is less tax on alcohol inside these clubs than elsewhere, hence the cheap drinks. This is a lovely idea. However, the average meal price (for a pretty average tasting meal too) is a whopping $25. That’s before drinks, entrees or desserts. If I pay $25+ for a meal, it’s because it’s going to be great…which is never the case at RSLs.

Oh, you’ll also be sitting in a relatively old dining hall with hideous carpet a la the casino, the average diner is 65, there are pokies in the corner and there will always be a horse race on the telly. To finish it off, they’ll pump out the worst 1950s music they can find.

I suggest, if you have full use of your hearing and tastebuds and don’t enjoy throwing away money, that you eat at any other local business in town, wherever you are.

We opted instead for Tenterfield Gourmet Pizza, which was delivered to our accommodation and was absolutely delicious. My aunt’s gluten free pizza was very innovative – it was made on a sweet potato base and deserves to be a popular dish in its own right, outside of its gluten-free status. Delish.

We stayed at Tenterfield Golfer’s Inn, which was a short drive from the main part of town but had great rooms and huge, modern, bathrooms – always very appreciated on a road trip.

What is your favourite small town?