sarakiniko milos greece

Highlights from 5 Days in Milos, Greece

Milos is one of the most beautiful Cyclades islands in Greece, and an excellent alternative or addition to a trip to Santorini or Mykonos. Of the seven Greek islands I’ve visited so far, Milos is my favourite! Below, I’ve shared my highlights from our 5 days in Milos, which includes some of the most beautiful beaches, like Sarakiniko and Firopotamus, and dazzling fishing villages like Mandrakia, Klima and Pollonia.

We had five days in Milos, and I was glad for the extra time. Of course, in Greece, all the time in the world is still not enough! The western half of Milos is only accessible by SUV, but we had plenty to explore on the eastern half of the island for five days.

In 5 Days in Milos, we stayed in Pollonia, and visited the famous colourful villages of Mandrakia & Klima, the capital, Plaka, sailed through the Kleftiko caves, and visited Milos’ most beautiful beaches, such as Sarakiniko, Plathiena, Papafragas, Aghia Kiriaki and Paleochori.

Read More: Complete Milos Travel Guide

Plaka Milos

A brief intro to Milos

Milos was one popular with pirates, who hid out in the chalky white Kleftiko Caves, which make a dazzling day trip these days. In the 19th century, a farmer discovered the Venus de Milo here, before it was was whisked away to the Louvre.

Despite being increasingly popular, there is still something that feels beautifully raw about Milos, and when planning each day, you’re at the mercy of the wind. The Greek island has more beaches than any other island in the Cyclades, but the day’s wind will dictate which ones to visit. The windswept, volcanic terrain creates other-worldly landscapes across the island, like the famous, moon-like Sarakiniko beach.

Planning a trip to Milos? Check out my complete guide Where to Stay in Milos for First Time Visitors .

adamas milos

How to get to Milos

Milos has an airport, but as we were arriving from the nearby island Sifnos, we took the ferry. I find that the short ferry trips between islands that are relatively close together generally run smoothly. If it’s a long ferry trip, huge delays and rough journeys can make it smoother to fly.

The port in Milos is in Adamas, and took a taxi to Pollonia, the village where we were staying.

Read More: Where to stay in Milos – Adamas vs Pollonia vs Plaka

Villa Mary Elen, Pollonia

We stayed at Villa Mary Elen, which is a short walk from the heart of Pollonia. Villa Mary Elen is the last building on the tip of the peninsula, so we had beautiful ocean views towards the neighbouring island, Kimolos.

I was tempted to visit Kimolos on a day trip, but we had too much fun in Milos to look farther afield.

View of Kimolos from Milos
View of Kimolos from Milos
Pollonia Beach, Milos Greece
Pollonia Beach

Free Printable: Itinerary for 2 Weeks in Greece

Get a free copy of my Itinerary for 2 Weeks in Greece for First Time Visitors – as a downloadable PDF. Each day’s itinerary is on a single page, making it printer-friendly and easy to reference on-the-go! Click here to get your copy!

Day 1: An easy first day in Paleochori

Paleochori

We only hired a car for one day on Milos, so on our first car-less day we had to rely on the island’s bus service. We took one bus to Adamas, and then a connecting bus to Paleochori, one of the island’s most popular beaches.

At the time, I thought Paleochori was pretty but not breathtaking, at least not compared to the beaches on Sifnos and Paros. Becoming an insufferable beach snob is an occupational hazard of travelling in Greece.

We took a pair of chairs at the beach club and relaxed for the afternoon. Most of my happiest memories from Greece are from doing nothing, at the beach. The water was warm and pleasant, despite the tiny biting fish which were harmless, but unnerving.

Paleochori Beach Milos Greece_1
Paleochori Beach Milos Greece_1
Paleochori Beach Milos Greece_1

Sunset & Dinner in Pollonia

We returned to our room in time to watch a spectacular sunset over the ocean. So far, we’d only caught one other sunset during our trip, at Parasporos beach in Paros. We decided to make it back to the balcony every night in Milos.

Greece is full of stray cats, but Milos’ has the most of anywhere we visited. I don’t mind cats at all, but a hefty tomcat joined us on the balcony and became quite insistent, on eating our food. We couldn’t make it leave, and it was getting a little aggressive, so we ended up moving inside. Yes, I felt quite pathetic!

After sunset, we walked into town for dinner. In Pollonia, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to waterfront restaurants. In Australia, waterfront restaurants are often terrible and over-priced, or excellent and very over-priced. In Greece, this wasn’t a problem.

We had dinner at Aliki, which is little more casual than the others, but had simple and delicious food. We couldn’t believe how cheap it was compared to New York City (where we were living at the time), and spent some time brainstorming how we could fund a life in Greece. We didn’t get far, but a girl can dream.

Sunset in Pollonia, Milos
Sunset in Pollonia, Milos
aliki pollonia milos

Day 2: Klima, Mandrakia, Plathiena & Firopotamus

Car Hire in Adamas

The next morning, we collected our hire car from Adamas. It’s a typical port town: busy, crowded and a tourist hub. There’s not much to see, so we set off straight away for the northeast coast of the island.

Adamas Milos
Adamas Milos

Klima Fishing Village

Our first stop, Klima, is one of the most beautiful sights on Milos. It’s famous for its tiny colourful fishing shacks, called syrmata, built into the side of the cliffs.

It was a traditional fishing village, once upon a time, but today the huts are often used as vacation rentals. Klima is one of the prettiest sights of our trip to Greece, and so uniquely Greek.

The drive to Klima was absolutely nerve-wracking. The steep roads weaved through tiny villages, and grew narrower by the minute. Several times in Greece, we’d have to reverse out of these winding rounds when we could go no further. We ended up letting our nerves get the better of us, and parking at the top of the road down to Klima.

We set off down the steep dirt road on foot, and before long it turned into a wide, paved road. It was a very long walk down to Klima, and an even longer walk back up, so don’t chicken out like we did! There’s a large car park at the bottom, so there’s plenty of room to turn around, too.

Klima Syrmata in Milos Greece

I expected a restaurant with no competition, at one of the most beautiful waterfront locations in Milos, to rest on its laurels. I was thrilled to be proven wrong. David had the most beautiful Greek salad I’ve ever seen and I had a fresh and delicious peach and prosciutto salad.

For dessert, we shared a trio of spoon sweets, a traditional Greek dessert. Three pots of Greek yoghurt were each topped with a different candied fruit. That day, they were serving pumpkin, watermelon and grapes!

Spoon sweets are so delicious and one of my favourite traditional Greek desserts. This trip began with my friend’s wedding in her hometown, Chalkida, and she gave all of her guests cherry spoon sweets as a gift. I didn’t realize what this was until we had lunch in Klima, and I was so excited when I realized I had my own to enjoy back in New York.

Read about visiting Klima in Milos

Klima Village Milos
Klima Syrmata in Milos Greece
restaurant at klima milos greece

Plathiena Beach

Our next stop was the Plathiena, a beautiful and relatively quiet beach that is only accessible by car. We skipped the beach club fees and found a spot on the sand instead. The strong northerly wind made the water irritatingly choppy, so I spent most of my time lazing about on the sand.

Plathiena is studded with pretty purple stones, which I had fun collecting from where I was sitting while David finished his swim. He’s more patient than I am.

Read more: The Most Beautiful Beaches in Milos

Plathiena Beach Milos
Plathiena Milos Greece

Firapotamus Beach

When we reached Firopotamus, we realized we were nearly out of petrol and nowhere near a petrol station. Fun! We walked down to the beach, but it is tiny and there wasn’t much free space. I much preferred the views over the pretty pink cliffs of Firopotamus from where we parked the car, above the beach.

Firopotamus Beach, Milos Greece
Firopotamus Beach, Milos Greece
Firopotamus Beach, Milos Greece
Firopotamus Beach, Milos Greece
Firopotamus Beach, Milos Greece

Mandrakia Fishing Village

Mandrakia is one of the most gorgeous hamlets in the Greek Islands. Colourful boat garages are built into the cliffs of its tiny harbour, and it is so picturesque that it’s hard to believe it’s real.

We admired the view for a while, and then went to the restaurant overlooking the ocean, Medusa, for a glass of wine. I wish we’d been hungry – Medusa is one of the most beloved restaurants on Milos. The setting is spectacular, so if I ever returned I’d come for lunch rather than dinner to make the most of the view.

Near the entrance of the restaurant there a model sailboat, which a litter of kittens were using as a fort. Adorable!

Mandrakia Milos Greece
Mandrakia Milos Greece
Mandrakia Milos Greece
Mandrakia Milos Greece

Dinner at Enalion in Pollonia

When we were back in Pollonia later in the evening, we had dinner at one of my favourite restaurants of the trip, Enalion. . Most of the produce is sourced from the owners’ farm on the island, and the food is simple and delicious.

Enalion Pollonia Milos

Day 3: Papafragas, Sarakiniko, Plaka & Aghia Kiriaki

Papafragas Cliffs

The following morning, a strong northerly wind was still blowing. We still visited a few beaches on the north coast, but didn’t swim until we reached the south coast beaches in the afternoon.

The beach at Papafragas is small, and surrounded by steep cliffs. It’s only accessible only by ignoring the multiple warning signs on your way down a treacherous path to the water. It’s hugely popular with influencers, but I think it pales in comparison to every other beach I visited. We admired the view from above, and then carried on.

Papafragas Milos Greece
Papafragas Milos Greece
Papafragas Milos Greece
Papafragas Milos Greece

Sarakiniko Beach

Sarakiniko is one of the most famous beaches in Milos, because the white, rocky landscape resembles the moon. It’s the most unusual place I’ve seen in Greece, and it’s absolutely beautiful.

It was very crowded here, and we didn’t go for a swim again because the water was so rough and it was so busy near the water anyway. Even though it wasn’t good for swimming that day, I loved spending some time here.

Read about visiting Sarakiniko Beach 

Sarakiniko Milos Greece
Sarakiniko Milos Greece
Sarakiniko Milos Greece

Plaka

Our next stop was Plaka, the capital of Milos. It reminded me a lot of Lefkes, the medieval capital of Paros, which is also built inland in the hills. We parked outside Plaka, as you can’t take a car inside the village, and spent a few hours wandering through the pretty streets.

We stopped at a bakery to try some traditional local desserts, including watermelon pie. It’s much tastier than it looks, and is unique to Milos. We also had a slice of super sweet galaktoboureko, which is widely available throughout Greece. I loved learning more about Greek desserts on this trip!

Plaka Milos Greece
Plaka Milos Greece
watermelon pie in plaka milos greece

Aghia Kiriaki Beach

Our final stop for the day was a swim at the beautiful Aghia Kiriaki, which is on the south side of the island. For some reason, Aghia Kiriaki receives little publicity. I can’t figure out why, but I’m glad for it! It was the most beautiful beach we visited on Milos, and one of my favourites from the whole trip.

It was not too busy, which was also surprising. The water is crystal clear and the round pebbles aren’t too bad underfoot.

After our swim, we headed up to the beach bar and had some calamari and a glass of wine on the deck. I don’t think there’s any better way to spend a lazy afternoon than with seafood & wine by the sea.

Aghia Kiriaki Milos
Aghia Kiriaki Milos
Aghia Kiriaki Milos

Sunset & dinner in Pollonia

We were back for sunset again, and this time the cat only bothered us for a little while! We had dinner at Gialos, which came highly recommended by our host, Themis.

The food presentation was more refined than the other restaurants we ate at in Greece. It wasn’t neccessarily better, but it was a novel change from the rustic tavern food I’d been enjoying. There’s always a long wait for a table at Gialos, and I felt a little more rushed here than at the other restaurants.

Gialos Restaurant Milos
Gialos Restaurant Milos

Day 4: Kleftiko Caves Day Trip

Sailing Around Milos to Kleftiko Caves

We spent our final day on Milos sailing around the island to the Kleftiko caves. We joined a small group sailing tour, with ten other people. There were a few beach stops along the way, and plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and swimming.

Before we left for Adamas, the tour meeting point, we had breakfast in Pollonia at Cafe Opsidianos. This cafe is such a tranquil spot to start the day, with beautiful views over the bay. It’s a few minutes walk away from the main part of town, so it’s also nice and quiet!

I was so glad to spend a day out on the water. I wish we’d taken one more boat trip while we were in Greece, maybe in Paros or Sifnos, but then I don’t know what day I would have traded on the land.

There was so much to see and do on every island, and I like that we often could spend a few hours or half a day at our favourite places. We made some friends on the boat, so we had dinner with them in Pollonia that evening.

We made some friends on the boat, so at the end of the day we had dinner and drinks with a group of them back in Pollonia, which was a nice way to end the day.

Sailing trip around Kleftiko Caves, Milos Greece
kleftiko milos
Sailing trip around Kleftiko Caves, Milos Greece
Sailing trip around Kleftiko Caves, Milos Greece
kleftiko milos

Day 5: Relaxing in Pollonia

Pollonia Beach

Our last day in Milos came around too fast! Milos was our last island of the trip, before a final few days in Athens. We hired chairs at the beach club in Pollonia and had a very lazy day by the beach. We ate pastries from the nearby bakery on the beach for breakfast, and then went to Aliki again for a simple calamari lunch. It was nice not to be rushing around on the last day.

Pollonia Beach in Milos Greecefood at aliki milos greece

Our flight was delayed, so we flew out in the early evening and arrived at our hotel in Athens by 10pm that night. I’d love to re-visit Milos, especially so I could spend a few nights in a fishing shack in Klima.

Pollonia milos greece
flying over greek islands

Future trip ideas

Since our trip to Milos, I’ve returned to Greece and spent four days in Crete, which feels like a country of its own.

I’d love to return to the Cyclades and re-visit some favourite places like Cheronissos on Sifnos. At the same time, islands like Naxos, Tinos and Folegandros are tempting for a first-time visit.

Beyond the Cyclades islands, there are so many other islands to choose from in Greece alone. Rhodes and Symi in the Dodecanese islands. The farflung Sporades islands of Skopelos and Skiathos, where Mamma Mia was filmed. The western Ionian islands of Kefalonia, Ithaca, Corfu and Lefkada. Just to name a few!

There are so many beautiful places to explore in Greece, that it’s hard to choose where to go, but I suspect it’s also hard to go wrong.

Further Reading

Planning a trip to Milos? Check out these guides:

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